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92 Kawasaki KLR 250 discussion forum:RE: Paul |
| RE: Paul |
| KLR 250 offroad said 2003-09-22 20:34 |
| If you are serious about offroad, the KLR 250 does decent. But there´s a few things that you can do to improve offroad. The first is tires. Get some more aggressive DOT legal tires, such as dunlop D606, Metzler MCE Karoo, Pirelli MT 21, and Bridgestone (I´m not sure of the model). There are a few other brands as well. After my factory rear wore out on my ´98, I replaced it with a D606. After it wore out I put on MT 21´s front and rear. I just recently put on Metzler Karoos. I haven´t had the Metzlers long enough to know, but the D606 will last much longer than the MT21 and factory tires. The MT 21 front and the Metzler is 90/90-21 versus factory 3.00-21, and the rear D606 and MT 21 was 130/90-17 versus 4.60-17. The 130/90 is wider and larger diameter than factory. I really didn´t notice with the D606 due to doing some engine mods and a smaller front sprocket at the same time, but with the MT 21 I noticed that it was sluggish and slightly slower on top speed. I thought I had a motor problem. The front Metzler MCE Karoo is the same size, but the rear is a 130/80 versus a 130/90. The actual tire width is the same knobby to knobby, but the actual diameter is about 1 inch smaller. And what a major difference it makes! It accelerates faster, has gained about 3 to 5 MPH in top speed, and handles better on and off road. It´s less noisy and grips about as well offroad overall as the MT 21. If you want the larger size, go with the D606 - I think it´s a better tire than the MT 21. But I would suggest the Metzler MCE Karoo. Whatever you get, try to go with an aggresive treaded tire in the 130/80-17 size, not 130/90-17. NOTE: after I installed the D606 I had a major problem with the rear tire hitting the tag and the plastic, bending the tag and breaking off the plastic. I had to replace the plastic, about $18 US if I remember. I relocated the tag bracket as high as I could, about 3 inches higher. I used fender washers, which had about a 1/4 inch hole and about a 1 inch or larger outside diameter, and some 1/4 inch stainless nuts and bolts. I cut off as much plastic as I could below the tag and I haven´t had a problem since. It clears the tag and plastic, and the fender washers help strengthen where the tag bracket mounts. I also went to Pro Action for some changes to the fork springs, valving, oil etc. This cost about $150 US and is worth it. I also had them install a Works Performance rear shock and spring, Which is a little expensive at $640 before tax. But I was told the non-rebuildable factory shock is about $600. The Works is rebuildable and has much more adjustability. It is a relative bargain. The forks are way too soft and bottom easily. Pro action can help, but a set of good used motorcross forks with much more than the KLR´s 9.1 inches of travel would be better. I haven´t done this yet. Also, I noticed that it would top out at 85 MPH at 8500 RPM. I changed to a 1 tooth smaller front sprocket and it did 85 at about 9000 RPM. It accelerates quicker, and with RPM to spare at top speed, didn´t lose top speed. I´ve also installed a Cobra exhaust, a Twin Air filter, UNI filter plugs in the airbox before the filter and had it rejetted. This made a noticable difference in power. There are other things you can do to the carb; someone familiar with a Keihin CV carb can assist you with this. There is a website that has KLR 250 info and tips that can help you. FMF and DEP and maybe Supertrapp make exhausts that may work better than the Cobra. I´m not totally satisfied with the Cobra. |
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