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Yamaha XT 250 discussion forum:RE: xt-250 specs |
| RE: xt-250 specs |
| petextman said 2004-10-10 15:38 |
| Hi, i think the spanish question relates to electrical problems, ive put some notes together and include a simple diagram. Any further questions please ask. pete. PS. I dont see how i can attach a drawing, any clues. pete YAMAHA XT 250 G WIRING INFO. INTRO. The XT 250 wiring diagram is similar to the DT series, in that the battery is not essential to run the engine. The battery powers only the :- Horn, Neutral light, winkers and the Stop and Tail light. The alternator has three coils, one to give the timing for the ignition, the small coil on the outer side of the stator plate with green and white wires, with a typical resistance of 265 ohms. The second on the left hand side of the stator plate powers the CDI unit with red and brown wires with a typical resistance of 450 ohms, if you remove the plug and kick the engine as fast as you can you should read 24 to 30 volts AC across this coil with no load. The third coil has a tapping part way and has two functions it powers the lights with AC and through a single diode charges the battery. The ignition coil has one side earthed and should also have an earth tag from the loom bolted to the frame, ensure this tag is not held of the frame with paint, use a rough sand paper to remove the paint around this bolt hole. Common Problems. No spark at the plug. WARNING ensure the plug body is grounded, I use a jumper cable to earth the plug body to the engine. Ensure the coil earth tag is well grounded. Temporarily Remove the black and white ‘stop wire’ from the CDI, and check for a spark. WARNING. The coil and CDI system when working correctly can give you a very nasty shock, and once charged the system has to output its last spark. These means if you operate the engine stop switch one more spark will happen before the system is discharged. You can check the coil with one piece of wire, remove the orange drive lead which usually joins the CDI output to the coil primary and attached a piece of wire to the coil primary input, hold it on the battery positive terminal for a few second as you remove it the plug should spark. No spark means a either:- a dead coil or plug or plug cap or EHT lead The coil that powers the CDI is the weak point these fail often ‘say once in 3 to 5 years’ and are expensive and rare. The lights blow. The regulator has failed, these things also fail short circuit which results in no lights working. this item is a zenner diode, its a limiter and should not allow the voltage to increase to such a pint that the lights fail. Should this item fail, un plug it and drive home with all the lights on and the lowest revs you can manage say less than 2200 rpm. The lights don’t work and or are dim. You may well have a corroded connection most likely in the handlebar switches, take them apart and clean the contacts with very fine emery cloth. WIRING KEY. Black & White. Engine stop signal, when at ground no spark, when floating sparking. Brown, is switched power i.e. with the ignition switch on +6v is available to power the horn etc. Blue and Blue and red wires, these carry the AC power to the lights. Some confusion here as when in park these lights are powered from the battery. Light Blue ‘sb; this is the neutral light wiring, take care here all the small lamps in the speedo are grounded apart from this one which is insulated from ground. Get this wrong and you short out the battery. Chocolate is the left winkers. Green is the right winkers. Pink is the horn. |
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