Old question, no answer yet? The answer is simple. 98% chance its the solonoid shorting out. Ive never heard of the button going bad.. but cut wires through bars can have issue..If the batt is low and you use the start button it arcs and makes wee weld scars all around the washer like contact rendering it to have poor connection wich in turn welds more scars.. the simplest way to verify is to unhook your positive at the batt. And rlpull the solinoid cover off exposing the nuts and posts, take a pic with your phone so you can see how it was set up for replacement later. Remove the nuts and wires and pull off the cap and look. If its scared up its done. Another point of intrest related to the topic: a lever actuator is available to direct power(no small wires) & my personal note: my best advice is to upgrade the stator to a 32amp get a new badass regulator recharge your batt. This eleviates the risk of low volt welds by putting the start and light juice back to full fast. So if you only skoot a short distance traditional output leaves you still drained from the start.. you literally need to run high speeds for about twenty miles to put back the power drawn to start her.. also why i like to kick it..
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